Food & Drink
Where Romans eat and what they order — the classic dishes, the trattorias, and the coffee and gelato rules nobody tells an American.
How to Spot a Tourist-Trap Restaurant in Rome
Rome has spectacular food — and also, especially around the big sights, plenty of mediocre, overpriced restaurants engineered to catch tourists who don't know…
The Best Markets in Rome
Rome's markets are where the city's real food life happens — colorful, noisy, fragrant places where nonnas haggle over artichokes, chefs source their produce,…
Cacio e Pepe, Carbonara, Amatriciana: Where to Eat the Classics
Rome's four classic pastas are the heart of its cuisine — and tracking down great versions is one of the genuine joys of a visit. But it's also where tourists…
The Roman Dishes You Have to Try
Roman food is not Italy's fanciest or most innovative — and that's exactly the point. This is cucina povera, "poor kitchen" cooking, built on a handful of humble…
Fine Dining in Rome: Worth the Splurge
Rome is a city of glorious trattoria cooking — humble, soulful, four-pastas-and-a-carafe dining. But it also has a refined, ambitious side: Michelin-starred…
Where to Eat in Trastevere & Testaccio
Two neighborhoods sit at the heart of Rome's food scene, just across the river from each other, and between them they offer the city's best eating: Trastevere,…
10 Trattorias Locals Actually Love
Finding a genuinely good trattoria in Rome isn't hard — but finding one near the major sights can be, because the streets ringing the Colosseum, Trevi, and the…
Roman Coffee Culture, Decoded for Americans
Coffee in Rome is nothing like coffee in America — not the drinks, not the ritual, not the etiquette, not even the price. There are no venti oat-milk lattes…
Aperitivo in Rome: Where to Have the Best Sunset Spritz
Aperitivo is one of Italy's most civilized inventions: the pre-dinner drink-and-snack ritual that bridges the late afternoon and Rome's famously late dinner…
Rooftop Bars in Rome With the Best Views
There's no better way to see Rome than from above, drink in hand, as the sun sets over a skyline of domes, bell towers, and terracotta rooftops. Rome's rooftop…
Gelato Done Right: How to Find the Real Stuff
Gelato is one of Rome's great cheap pleasures — and also one of its most common tourist traps. The streets around the major sights are lined with shops selling…